Beau Paysage Tsugane La Montagne Merlot 2022

Besides the most dedicated oenophiles, few have heard of Beau Paysage. This is in part because of the limited production (less than 10,000 bottles a year) and because of the highly discreet allocation to select natural wine bars and restaurants within Japan.

Literally meaning “beautiful landscape”, the name of the 3ha estate is in French, an indication of Eishi Okamoto's respect and love for France as the land of wine. It is also a description of his estate’s magnificent natural backdrop – that of Mount Fuji.

Okamoto-san grows Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot. The range of varieties may sound eclectic but Okamoto-san, a former archaeologist, is an incessantly curious and meticulous grower who is wholly dedicated to his vines and committed to overcome a hot, humid climate frequently plagued by rain to make wines born with real character.

Quiet and resolute, Okamoto-san has swallowed criticisms for his “odd” wines, overcome many a lost harvest and evolved from conventional winemaking to a natural philosophy. All the while still producing every single bottle by hand.

His wines have reached a level of such quality that they are now sold before they've even been made, and the extremely rare bottles that are exported are instantly snapped up.

• Merlot