Region: Franken, Germany

Grape: Sylvaner

Farming: Organic and biodynamic

Stefan Vetter is punk rock. He has done nothing that has even the slightest commercial logic to it. His old friend Andreas Adam (of the celebrated Mosel estate A.J. Adam) must shake his head, watching Stefan, like a wild hermit, run himself up into the terraced vineyards of Franconia. Yet from a scant few hectares of old terraced vineyards, Stefan is redefining what Sylvaner can be. Stefan is at the forefront of the natural wine movement in Germany and these are some of the greatest Sylvaners out there. Pressing is done gentle, and the juice may see a short bit of skin contact, but most of it is moved directly into old barrels. Unfiltered and unfined. Bright, lifted and extremely mineral with a sharp citrusy cut.